Setting up the PR600

Setting up the Brother PR600Brother PR-600 Tensioners

Once the machine was brought into the house, the hefty manual looked a daunting read.  Over 200 pages and all in English.  What I liked about the manual was the clarity of the illustrations and screen grabs from the digital display touchscreen. Very easy to follow.

Threading the Brother PR600

If you are smart, you only need to thread the PR600 once.  Threading the six cottons the first time took about 20 minutes, getting the path down the front of the machine correct takes a little time.  Now that it is all threaded correctly, changing threads is a matter of cutting at the cone end, changing the cone for the new colour and tying the new colour to the old one.  It is then quite quick and easy to pull the new colour down, the knot will not get stuck anywhere as long as you don't try and pull it through the eye of the needle!  You might use about half a metre of thread but save yourself a lot of headaches.

The Brother PR 600 Hoops

As standard, you get four hoops or frames.

200mm x 300mm - Ideal for jacket backs or large areas

130mm x 180mm - For large designs

100mm x 100mm - Great for shirt breast designs

40mm x 60mm - For very small items (socks!?)

We tend to use the 100mm square hoop for most of our work.  We sew designs of around 10,000 to 20,000 stitches on polo or pique shirts made of cotton.  Adjusting the machine to take the different sizes is quick and easy, the software recognises the new hoop size.  It is just a case of clipping the hoop in place.

[TIP] Decrease your machine down time and increase productivity by buying an extra hoop so you can get the next garment ready while the PR600 sews out your design. 

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